A Tanimbar Experience

Another Jasdip (See Chart 4) Just after midday all the crew are back on board Lowana IV and our shore gear has been stowed away. The anchor is weighed without further ado and as Martin secures it for sea, Delma and Ann ready the sails while I take the boat down the harbour under motor. There’s a stiff breeze blowing so we’ll only need the small #2 jib up for now. Each crewmember takes up a position to raise the headsail. Martin connects the halyard while Delma is ready at the mast to haul the sail aloft. Ann stands by to make sure it doesn’t snag on anything and rip itself. We are starting to act as a coordinated team with only a minimum of instructions needed. With the headsail up and the motor off, the boat picks up speed and slips effortlessly through the water at three and a half to four knots down the harbour. Now that we’re underway we look back and see Idlewise and Farr Star at anchor. We call them up on VHF Radio Channel 16 and exchange mutual wishes for a safe and speedy voyage. It’s left unsaid but we know these people will continue to monitor the radio just as we will. I’ve found there is a reassuring camaraderie that is common amongst cruising sailors. The wind is strong at about 20 knots so a second reef would be prudent to put into the mainsail before it goes up too. When this is done and the sail properly trimmed the boat immediately jumps to five and a half knots. Despite the wind the boat is properly balanced to handle easily so we enjoy the excellent sailing and charge along. Today we’re going to check out the little island of Nustabun near the harbour entrance. We’ve heard and read a bit about it and it seems to be worth a visit. If there’s time and if the conditions are right we’ll go for a swim and snorkel on the reefs there. Soon we enter the clear waters beyond the harbour and our course changes westerly, following the coast but staying well offshore due to the wide fringing reefs. Sailing amongst reef areas without local knowledge can be hazardous, so we drop the sails mid-afternoon when we approach the northern side of Nustabun Island. Moving under motor we check the north and west sides of the island taking depth soundings and checking the coral reefs for a promising spot in which to anchor. The island looks inviting with its beautiful white sand beaches and clear green water. It’s said to be an excellent place for snorkelling and diving. An hour later after having a look at it I decide Nustabun would be okay to visit for a short stop, but I wouldn’t wish to anchor overnight here. It’s highly likely the anchor might drag if the wind comes up. There isn’t enough time to stay for a while and then find another anchorage before dark so the boat is turned back out to deeper water. The sails are put back up and trimmed for our next destination off the village of Adaut on Selaru Island, which is directly south of the main island of Yamdena. The village is not far away and by late afternoon the sails are brought down again to start our final approach. The motor takes us the rest of the way in with everyone positioned around the boat to spot for shallow reefs, while we cautiously probe forward with the depth sounder running. There’s plenty of activity on the water as tiga-rowa’s, sporting lateen sails travel back and forth. Most of these are local fishermen who fish to feed their families and try to sell any excess if there’s a good day’s fishing. The anchor is set after completing several circular soundings of our proposed anchorage site. Sundowners as the name suggests is a time before sunset when the sailing is done to indulge in a few stronger type beverages. Martin has a very nice specialty which he sets about making for me in recognition that I’m a non-drinker. It consists of two non-alcoholic Coca-Cola cocktails complete with pips. The rest of them have a couple of drinks of the more mind-bending kind. What to cook for dinner is answered when Delma calls over a nearby fisherman with gestures and cries of ikan -fish. He paddles his canoe over and hangs off the stern davits before offering eight smallish sized fish. A bargain is soon struck and while talking to the fisherman we learn the local religion is predominantly Christian Catholic or Protestant. There are no Moslems here. Another bloke who is nearby, probably attracted by the activity comes on over and invites himself aboard. This chap is as deaf as a post and speaks at top volume to compensate. He seems quite friendly but is very insistent on staying. As politely as possible he’s asked to leave so that we can eat. During the evening our trusty barbeque is set up for the first time since being bashed at sea. As Martin predicted it’s still working perfectly. There’s enough fish to go around and we enjoy a meal cooked with mashed potato, sweet corn and pumpkin. Locally grown banana and pawpaw desert soaked in Cointreau follows except I just had the fruit. Our conversation turns to details about the village as we relax on deck after dinner looking at the village lights. It’s decided that since the village looks interesting with its huge church; we’ll stay and visit at least for tomorrow. Mention of the church sparks a desire by the ladies to attend a service on Sunday. No decision is immediately made about this just yet and we agree to just wait and see. The full moon gets bigger and starts lighting up the whole bay with a soft blue light as we lay on mattresses up on the deck in the cool of the evening. Parts of the shore are lit by a ghostly white sand with a backdrop of scattered village lights behind. With a full tummy and the warm glow of lubricating drinks we listen to the small surf running softly onto the reefs in the background. The whole scene is just so peaceful and horrible, we’ll just have to stay to Sunday - just to see if it gets any better of course. Saturday 29 August 1998 It’s another jasdip - Just-Another-Shitty-Day-In-Paradise morning. The sun is shining heartily but there are still a couple of sleepy heads not yet stirring. A check on the new anchor watch lamp reveals it’s still lit with a third full of kerosene. For those who are up there’s a nice cup of tea or coffee followed by a casual breakfast of eggs, tomato and onion with pita and pumpernickel bread. A relaxing morning is spent on board just watching the boat traffic come and go. There seem to be plenty of boats coming in loaded with people. We begin to wonder if this is normal or whether there is something special happening here. A fellow named Lambert comes out to visit in a reasonable sized timber boat powered by a 15 horsepower Yamaha outboard motor. After introductions and a chat he offers to take us to a nearby island tomorrow for a picnic and some swimming and snorkelling. We make arrangements to leave after the church service tomorrow which he tells us starts at nine in the morning. After lunch it’s time to go ashore for a look at the village. Martin decides to remain onboard so I will have to communicate to the locals the best I can. Luckily the water is calm as the dinghy is brought around the rock jetty and up onto the rocks above from the tide level. We’re immediately the focus of attention especially from the village children. They remain almost constant escorts and there must be 50 or more following us around at any one time. Obviously these villagers don’t see too many orang putih - white people.